blog, Tutorials

A new approach to etching metal

Quite a few people have been asking how I transfer such sharp designs to copper when creating my popper cuffs, so I thought I’d put it out there for everyone to share… Hope someone finds this useful! 🙂

I purchased everything I needed for etching a couple of years ago when a friend of mine kindly shared how to do it. (check out her work is incredible!)  I managed to make a couple of things, but never really got on with the process of transferring designs to the metal to be etched.

Part of the process involved taping up the back of the metal so that it would be protected from the chemicals… so during a brainwave moment, I realised that I could cut the designs from sticky backed vinyl and use that as a resist on the metal.

My designs are cut using a Silhouette Cameo. For anyone that doesn’t know, a Cameo is a craft machine used to cut paper, fabric, vinyl and much more for all sorts of crafts. It’s pretty much the same as a printer, but rather than printing it uses a tiny blade to cut out the designs. To find out more of the kinds of things you can do with the machine see here I think you’ll agree that you need one!!!

If your budget won’t stretch that far, this process will also work with hand cut designs. Use a really sharp scalpel and medium pressure to cut the vinyl without going through the backing paper.

Here’s a step by step of how I transfer a design to metal using vinyl…


etch 01


  1. Copper blanks cut from sheet. Here they still have the protective film on. Leave this on while you sand and file the edges to make sure there aren’t any sharp bits. It will protect the copper surface from being scratched with your tools. Once you are happy with your finish, remove the tape and give them a good clean. I use a scouring pad and washing up liquid. You will know they are perfectly clean when the water sits on them like a skin. If the water breaks on the metal, you still have grease or dirt on them so keep cleaning! Leave them to dry on kitchen roll and try not to touch them as oils from your skin will create a barrier from the etching chemicals.

etch 01a

  1. While they’re drying out, open your designs up in Silhouette Studio (the software provided with the cutter), size them to fit your blanks.

etch 02

  1. Here are the cut designs. these were then taped up with transfer paper ( like masking tape, but less sticky!) ready to stick them to the copper blanks.

etch 03

  1. The designs were cut to size once on the transfer paper and pressed on to the blanks. Make sure to give them a good rub down so that they stick well. This is where your cleaning the metal helps, any areas that aren’t stuck down will allow the etch solution to seep underneath and spoil the design. Tape up the backs of the blanks with more vinyl to stop the etch penetrating both sides.

etch 04

  1. To etch the designs, I use Edinburgh etch solution. This is made from ferric chloride and citric acid. It is a lot safer than other solutions used for etching, but safety precautions should still be taken and never empty used fluid down your drain!!! Once mixed up, it should last for a long time, it’s yellow when you start out, but mine’s turned green after being used so much. The recipe is based on the overall ratio of; 4/5 saturated ferric chloride solution (40%).1/5 citric acid solution which consists of 3/4 tap water and 1/4 Citric acid powder.The blanks are suspended with tape upside down in the solution. They are upside down so that the copper removed during the process falls off the blank and creates a nice clean design.


  1. Check every half an hour or so to see how they’re progressing and when you’re happy with the depth of the etch, remove them from the solution. Drop them in to a solution of bicarbonate of soda and water to halt the etching process. At this point, if you’d just like plain copper cuffs you can remove the vinyl design and begin to shape and polish them. But I want my cuffs to be coloured, so I dropped alcohol inks into the recesses and left them to dry.

etch 05


  1. Once they’ve dried (I left these overnight) remove the vinyl design and give them a buff with a soft cloth to remove any flaky bits of ink and coat with renaissance wax to seal. I then polished up the backs and sealed again with the wax. They are now ready to be shaped in to cuffs. I set these with popper settings to use with my lampwork poppers, but you can leave them plain, rivet elements to them, or whatever takes your fancy

etch 06


  1. Here’s one finished off and ready to go!



I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, leave me a comment if you have any questions, and if you’d like to own one my cuffs, I will be taking lots along to the Flame Off show at Silverstone and listing afterwards in my Etsy Shop!



Caroline x

80 thoughts on “A new approach to etching metal

  1. Hi Tex, no the tape doesn’t leave any residue at all, it’s designed to peel away cleanly. I’ve tried a few different brands and haven’t had any problems ?

  2. Thank you.
    One more question if you have time…
    What’s your best method to remove the vinyl after the etching is done?

  3. I usually use a fingernail to catch the edge and peel it off, if it’s a bit too fiddly a scalpel blade will do the trick ? If you find there is a bit of residue from the vinyl (it’s stickier than the transfer tape), you can remove it with white spirit or a soak in hot soapy water.

  4. Love your technique. I do etch copper but never thought to use alcohol inks to color the copper. Thanks for sharing

  5. Thank you for the great tutorial. Your cuffs are just beautiful. The bright colors are what caught my eye right away. I’ve read through all of your
    Q & A ”s but didn’t find an answer to my question. You mention placing the transfer paper onto the design. But, I just didn’t understand where the paper is to be removed. Or is it? I know you placed your tut in 2013 and this is 2 years later. Hope you receive my question. Thank you so much.

  6. Hi Eva and thanks, glad you enjoyed the tutorial! The paper transfers the vinyl design and is removed right away leaving the sticker behind. It’s purpose is just to hold all of the fiddly little bits together and in place while you move it from the backing across to the metal. Hope that helps! ?

  7. Hi Caroline, I was going to ask the same question as Eva 🙂 I’m in Australia & sometimes cannot get the same products here. The ‘transfer’ paper you’re talking about, as it is sticky (you said it’s like masking tape but not as sticky), doesn’t it leave a slight residue on the copper that is to be etched away around the vinyl? I am very keen to try this, but want to be sure I know what to do before investing in a Cameo machine.

    On looking at the Cameo machine, I’ve seen there is on called a Curio, that is smaller, but that actually etches metal as well! To you know if that one cuts the vinyl templates too or just the Cameo?

    Thanks 🙂

  8. Hi, and sorry for the late reply! There are different regulations depending on where you live. Your local refuse centre should be able to advise you on what to do with the spent solution. I top up my etching solution with fresh liquid, and don’t use it too often so I don’t have loads to throw away, but the bit I do have is stored in a bottle ready to be disposed of when there’s a decent amount.

  9. Wonderful and informative post.Your work is gorgeous!

    I also had the idea of using tape or vinyl for resists as I have not been entirely pleased with the results when using a permanent marker resist. I then learned more about what the vinyl cutting machines can do so I’m buying myself one for Christmas.

    I love the tip about applying the alcohol ink before removing the vinyl. I have some inks, but wasn’t sure how to use them the best way or if they would leave too much color where I may not want it.

  10. Hi Caroline,
    I have just started etching. However not having much luck with my designs being crisp and etching neatly.
    I am going to purchase the Cameo. I am not understanding the transfer to the copper part. What are you using to print the designs on? I don’t understand how they then are taped up with transfer paper. How do the designs etch with transfer paper on them?
    Thank you very much!!

  11. Hi Pamela. The images are cut in vinyl, a sticky backed plastic sheet. When they are cut and you weed away the parts you don’t want you are left with your design as a sticker. This would be difficult to lift and place in position if it’s a complicated design so you use a paper transfer tape over the sticker to lift it off the backing while keeping it in place. Once you’ve applied the sticker to the metal, the transfer paper is removed before etching.

    If you have a look on YouTube for vinyl cutting you should find some helpful videos that show you the process.

  12. Thank you ? no sealant as the alcohol inks are permanent. If you used a different finish you might want to try something to protect it though.

  13. Great tutorial! I have a the new cricut air and was wondering when looking for designs for the vinyl what type of designs do you look for!


  14. I’m not sure what file type the Cricut takes, but for the cameo, it works from DXF files. The main thing to look for is something in vector format. You need a file that has a line image rather than pixels like a JPEG does. It’s the line that tells the blade what to cut. Hope that helps 🙂

  15. Caroline, Loved your etched bracelets! What gauge Copper do you use for bracelets? Do use Renaissance Wax on both sides? By chance do you have a video tutorial?
    Thanks, Teresa

  16. Hi Teresa, sorry for the late response! I just use the wax on the outside. I’m afraid I don’t have a video tutorial. Maybe one day I’ll get Round to it ?

  17. Hi Lin, I do sell them but have none in stock at the moment. You can pick up a smaller version of the silhouette for about £150, and then it’s probably around another £50-£60 for all the vinyls, liquids, copper and other bits and bobs.

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